the Arriviste

One day, two neighborhoods: Little India and Haji Lane

Top three pictures: Little India; the rest: Haji Lane. Second from bottom: A Thousand Tales. Bottom picture: Piedra Negra.

First, sorry for the lack of posts.  I've been waylaid by deadlines, illness, parties, etc, etc.  You know how it goes.  But I have managed to do a little exploring, and have just the thing if you're feeling the itch to experience more than obscenely-priced restaurants (I'm talking to you, Marina Bay Sands) and slick shopping malls.  A great way to absorb Singapore's famous multi-ethnic culture is to walk around Little India and Haji Lane, which both harken back to Old Singapore with their narrow lanes and shophouses in atmospheric decay.  In Little India, jewelry, saris, and knick-knack shops sit chock-a-block on the neighborhood's bustling streets. And in the Arab Quarter, the quaint Haji Lane has become host to lots of little boutiques. Though mostly stocked with dime-a-dozen "vintage" goods, there are some gems among them, like mid-century inspired furniture atelier A Thousand Tales. 

Start your day with lunch in Little India and then head over to Haji Lane for some browsing and an afternoon margarita.

1. Lunch is first on the agenda: Head to the fittingly-named Banana Leaf Apolo at 54 Racecourse Rd, one of Little India's most famous restaurants, for an Indian feast served on banana leaves.  If vegetarian is your thing, head instead to Kailash Parbat at the corner of Belilios and Serangoon roads.  This cool and inviting gem of a restaurant was introduced to me by none other than the lovely Notabilia, knower of all things interesting in Singapore, whose mother has been a fan for years.  Opt for the buffet.

2. Next , wander over to Serangoon Rd and walk against traffic to the corner of Dalhousie Lane, peeping into gold shops and sweet stalls as you go.  At Dalhousie you'll find the Little India Arcade, a maze of Indian goodies, from crafts to medicine. Done with the arcade? Walk around the surrounding lanes until you've had your fill.

3. Now you're off to Haji Lane.  Hop in a cab and have the driver drop you directly there.  The little street doesn't span more than a couple of blocks, so pick an end and start exploring.  Keep an eye out for hipster-ready clothes at K.I.N. and covetable furniture at A Thousand Tales.

4. If you're not totally exhausted after all the browsing, wander around the neighborhood a little more for a look at carpet shops and shisha spots and over to Singapore's oldest mosque, Masjid Sultan.

5. But if you're ready for a break, then trot on over to Piedra Negra for one of Singapore's best margaritas. You've earned it!

 

Urban Oasis: The Botanic Gardens

  
 Center photo: E. Stone. 

The Botanic Gardens, located about a kilometer west of the start of Orchard Road, is one of the most beautiful urban parks this arriviste has ever visited.  A tropical sanctuary from the shopping malls and hawker centers that often dominate visitors' itineraries, this 183 acre park is truly a lovely way to experience Singapore's tropical landscape.  Visit the orchid and ginger lily gardens, stroll through the rainforest trail or catch a free performance--anything from opera to big band--at the Shaw Foundation Symphony Stage on the weekends (see here for a schedule of events).  Enter at the Cluny Rd gate and pick up a bottle of water or a latte at cafe Casa Verde before setting out to explore.

 

Doorstep Luxury: Where all the cool girls shop

  

 
 



 

From top: Fleet Ilya clutches in peppermint and coral, Ranjana Khan crystal tie necklace, Ela Stone Mayta Torque Necklace and Blair Earrings. Photos courtesy of Doorstep Luxury.

I try not to use gratuitous italics when describing my finds (truly, so few things deserve to be described with such emphasis).  But when it comes to the fanciful jewelry and accessories carried by the eagle-eyed style setters at Doorstep Luxury, I practically think in italics.  The boutique has acquired something of a cult following since its launch in 2010, and one glance at the sorbet colored clutches above, or the cheeky crystal tie necklace, makes it obvious why.  Their leather goods and accessories are unique, eye-catching and finely wrought.  They're the kind of high-style pieces worn by the confident girl with a sharp style all her own--in short, the coolest girl you know.

Visit Doorstep Luxury online at www.doorstepluxury.com or at their showroom, by appointment only: 127A Telok Ayer Street. Tel: +65 6896 1661.

The Disgruntled Chef = Laid back drinks + serious food

 Top: Bloody Mary Chaser

I do like the Disgruntled Chef so very much.  In my humble opinion, they do both food and drink memorably well in their hip, unpretentious Dempsey spot.  Classic cocktails get an update, like the Bloody Mary Chaser shown above, a mix of vodka, homemade tomato sauce and mozzarella-stuffed olives.  And the DG's own bar creations, like the sea salt and chili margarita, are sophisticated, grown-up drinks.  What's more, the DG hasn't succumbed to the siren call of the obscenely priced $20+ cocktail, seen all over Singapore, which is practically bankrupting a certain arriviste. (Ahem, Nektar.)

And if the cocktails weren't enough, the DG's modern, Western fare recalls the New American cuisine of San Francisco or New York, which precious few restaurants here do well, in my view, that is when they do it at all. Be sure to order the crackling pig and lamb short ribs.

Style: Short and stripey

  
Is this arriviste muse not, as they say, fierce?

Style: Chains and skulls

Style: The grey

When I first moved to Asia I was struck by how much grey Asian women wear.  And envious.  There is something so sophisticated about the colors of clouds on an overcast day or before an approaching thunderstorm.  This lovely does grey beautifully, and with such stylish accents, from her zebra sunglasses to her gladiator sandals.

An Itinerary: The best of Orchard Road

 On Pedder  

I generally try to avoid Orchard Rd at all costs.  The crowds, the overwhelming amount of merchandise, the underwhelming quality of it all.  But chances are if you're visiting Singapore, you'll find yourself here at some point.  So here are my suggestions to steer you away from the stores you see every day of your life and toward the Arriviste's top Orchard picks.

First rule: Do not go on a weekend afternoon, especially a Sunday.  You have been warned.

1. Get off to a pleasant morning start at TWG in ION Orchard, which sits atop the Orchard MRT stop, for tea and exquisite pastries.  Do not leave without trying the Napoleon macaron, lovingly described here.  But don't eat too much...

2. ...Because Thye Hong in Wisma Atria is your next stop for hokkein mee, fried Fujianese prawn noodles. On my first visit to Singapore I asked my wise friend Sue which hawker to choose, and she wisely replied, pick the one with the longest line.  And so began my love for Thye Hong's $4 hokkien mee.  If you like spicy, the sambal adds great flavor.  NB, other outlets are not as good as this one. 

Standout store: Retail Therapy

Jewelry with character for ladies with character

      

Bottom photo: Retail Therapy, Mandarin Gallery, courtesy of Retail Therapy.

I've found that cool, interesting jewelry can be hard to find in Singapore, especially cool pieces that don't cost the price of three dinners at Marina Bay Sands (yum, Mozza) plus a bottle of champagne at Ku De Ta (yum, champagne). In other words, quite expensive.  

Enter Retail Therapy in Mandarin Gallery on Orchard Rd, solving jewelry problems!  While their pieces may still run you upwards of $150, boy do they have personality, like the New York-themed charm bracelet pictured above, the agate ring, or the punk-chic spiky gold necklace.  And jewelry with personality is money well spent, if you ask me.  

Retail Therapy also carries other covetables, like sparkly cocktail dresses.  Visit them here:

Retail Therapy, #02-22 Mandarin Gallery, 333 Orchard Rd and #03-13 Wheelock Place, 501 Orchard Rd

 

Drinking on Emerald Hill

 

Ah, what a disappointment to find that the really good cocktail bars are few and far between in Singapore.  (Tippling Club reigns supreme, but having said that I still have The White Rabbit, Baretto and Drink Culture to cross off my list.  So much to drink, so little time!)  The bars on Emerald Hill, all housed in pretty little shophouses--thanks, allegedly and disappointingly, to the work of one property developer--don't solve this problem, but they do provide a totally pleasant environment to have a glass of rose, as pictured above, after a marathon day on Orchard Rd or on your way out to dinner.  Friends of this arriviste stick to Que Pasa, but prices aren't bad at No 5 either. 

Style

In honor of Mother's Day, a shot of the leather wraparound bracelets made by this styling gentleman's styling mother.

Bali: Seminyak Gems

Top 3 photos: jewelry and silk sarongs from  Namu.  Bottom photos: Carga.

If it's your first time in Bali, a drive through Seminyak's shopping throng will likely overwhelm you with shopping options.  But while there are many stores that aren't bad, few are standouts.  Namu and Carga, sitting opposite one another on Jalan Petitenget, away from Seminyak's heavily-trafficked main streets, rise way above the rest.  Namu carries the lovely accessories in the pictures above (a certain arriviste got those gorge agate earrings for herself and a silk sarong) and Carga stocks Bali-chic (not a prevalent enough combination, unfortunately) home accessories: cotton pillows, candles, vases, wicker baskets, beautiful toddler-sized frocks and more.  

When you're done browsing, pop into Potato Head, a beach club with a silly name but an inviting infinity pool, mid-century modern decor that oozes laid-back cool, and damn good drinks.  Feeling for a local lunch instead? Warung Kolega, a short taxi ride up the road, will satisfy that fix in a very good way.

- Namu: Jl. Petiteneget 234X

- Carga: Jl. Petiteneget 886

- Warung Kolega: Jl. Petiteneget 98A

 

Style: Bali Hiatus II

Awesome hair.

Style: Bali Hiatus

 Rockabilly Bali

Bali Hiatus

An amble around Chinatown and its environs

 
   

Top: Shophouses in Chinatown.  Bottom: Thian Hock Keng Temple.

On my first visit to Singapore, having come from Hong Kong, I skipped Chinatown altogether.  What, I thought, would there be to see in Chinatown that I didn't already know very well from the real China? (Okay, Hong Kong isn't exactly real China, but you get my point).  Well, it turns out that Chinatown is one of the best places to see Singapore's distinctive shophouses.  The colorful low-rise buildings originated in 18th century colonial Singapore and traditionally housed the family business at the front and living quarters at the back. 

Here's a suggested itinerary that will give you your fill of shophouses and includes a food detor at the end (or perhaps the begining if you start hungry), as well as some distinctive shops and sights to pop into. 

The Chinatown MRT station is the closest stop to this itinerary. 

- Walk: Start at the corner of South Bridge Road and Temple Street and wander up and down Temple, Smith, and Sago streets, which are choc-a-bloc with food stalls, cheap market items and lots and lots of shophouses.  

- Shop: Head up Ann Siang Hill and around Club Street for independent boutiques, cafes and restaurants.

- Eat: If you're hungry (and not interested in your reward below), drop into PS Cafe, tucked at the end of Ann Siang Hill, for reliable, if pricey, continental food.  (New Yorkers: One look at the ground floor and you'll swear you stumbled into a Lower East Side bar, reproduction tin roof and all.)

- Walk and shop some more: Take a left out of PS Cafe and head through Ann Siang Park to Amoy St.  Wander up Amoy and over to Telok Ayer for a peep into the beautiful Thian Hock Keng Chinese temple.  Be sure to stop into Hide and Seek and the utterly sublime Doorstep Luxury for beautiful accessories from international designers (more on that to come!). [Update: Hide and Seek is now at 77 Bussorah St in the Arab Quarter.]

- And now your reward: the inimitable Chinese burger at Lau Pa Sat!

Style

 How stunning is this dress?  

 

Style

  

Great shades, great belt.

 

Style

 
 How awesome are these vintage sunglasses?

Style

 

My morning dose of caffeine and cool. Sharp lenses, sharp haircut.

Style

A soft pallete of pink and beige (those shorts--yes, they're shorts!--are so sophisticated), punctuated by a bright pink belt and peep-toes. The epitome of effortless chic. 

Style

Great haircut, breezy neutrals. 

Orchids: So chic, so cheap!

 Orchids at Hawaii Landscape

I suspect that Mr Noto (that tastemaker of my previous post) would agree with me that flowers are a key element in a well-dressed room, and orchids, with their simple elegance, are an unfailingly sophisticated choice.  And because we live in Asia, they're also practically free!  Elegance for free!  Okay, not free, but for $12 a stem at Hawaii Landscape nursery on Thomson Rd (that's right, 12 Singapore dollars!) you have no excuse not have dozens--or at least two--in your home.  As a bonus, they last weeks longer than cut flowers, keeping the gorgeous going and going.  

Hawaii Landscape, 559 Thomson Rd, Tel: 6251 3963

http://hawaiilandscape.com.sg

Mr Noto shows us how its done.  Noto's Paris apartment (photo: Architectural Digest)

 

Standout Stores: Christopher Noto and Pagoda House

 

Top: Christopher Noto.  Bottom: Noto's Paris apartment (photo: Architectural Digest).

I happened upon the Christopher Noto and Pagoda House stores on a visit to Singapore before moving here, and both were at the very top of my list for interior design and home décor inspiration when I arrived. The two stores reflect the aesthetic of their owner Christopher Noto, an American designer living in Singapore, who deftly combines old and new, Asian and Western, antique and reproduction to supremely stylish effect.  Looking at his work (like his Paris apartment above), it’s no wonder he’s a darling of the international design press for his glamorous but restrained style.  

You too could be living in Asian-inspired luxury: Noto also offers residential interior design services.

http://www.pagodahouse.com

Pagoda House Gallery & Co and Christopher Noto

143/145 and 137/139 Tanglin Rd, Tudor Court

Style

 

Effortless cool: The lovely Lisa of Things I Like. Leopard, camel, and red works beautifully here.

Hawker center standout: Rou jia mou, the Chinese burger

 



Above: Rou jia mou at Lau Pa Sat

We here at the Arriviste are no lovers of amateur food photography.  (And by “we” I mean “me”, because, after all, there’s only one person writing this blog. “We” does add an air of authority, though, and it seems to be a fashionable pronoun on the blogs these days, so I thought I'd try it out. Anyhoo.)  More often than not, non-professional, non-styled food photographs are utterly unappetizing.*

So I realize I’m taking a risk posting the above photo of rou jia mou, aka a “Chinese burger”, at the Lau Pa Sat hawker center, but its sheer deliciousness demands that it have its own picture.  I’m also about to festoon this post with clichés as I describe the said "burger", but that can’t be helped either.  These little sandwiches are bursting with flavor: piping-hot diced pork and herbs, drizzled with a light, savory sauce, and packed into a soft, floury bun. They are now on regular rotation on this arriviste's weekday lunch lineup.

Buyer beware: obsession may ensue.  Buyer also beware: If you get there at 1:30pm, they may be sold out and you’ll have to come back for the evening round.

Jia Xin Kitchen, #76 Lau Pa Sat Festival Market, 18 Raffles Quay

MRT: Raffles Place

www.laupasat.biz

*Arriviste muse and blogger extraordinaire Notabilia demonstrates food snapshots done right here, here, and here.

 

Style

So cool, so stylish.  I adore the shorts and blazer, and the metal-tough feather necklace. 

Freebie! I-S Singapore Restaurant Guide 2011

 Image courtesy of is.asia-city.com

Because they are as awesome as the free weekly they put out on the most happening of happenings all over Singapore, the editors at I-S Magazine are offering their Restaurant Guide 2011 for free until April 8.  Download it at their website, is.asia-city.com.  Allez-y, mes gourmands!  

Style

Hong Kong Hiatus II

 

Arriviste muse. Effortless cool in soft layers, a serious scarf, and Miu Miu rainboots to fend off the Hong Kong rain.

Style

 Hong Kong Hiatus

 Effortless cool: Textured jacket, killer boots, dots and a leather cuff.

Japan

 Photo: Reuters

My thoughts and prayers are with our Japanese brothers and sisters in this most tragic hour of need.   

Faux sneaks

B-Sided espadrilles at Hide and Seek

I'm not big on writing about shopping, I find it a bit snooze-inducing actually.  But I recently happened upon Hide and Seek, a quasi-hidden shopfront on Telok Ayer St, and these "artificial sneakers" by B-Sided totally stole my heart.  On first glance I thought, wow, the Topsider trend is really big in Singapore (which it is, endearingly).  And then I realized that they were only painted to look like boat shoes and sneakers, and were really canvas espadrilles--a triumph of trompe l'oeil!  These cuties, $69, are hand sewn in the Basque region of France.

Hide and Seek also carries gorgeous small-label perfumes, vintage sunglasses and fashion from local designers.  

Hide and Seek, 176 Telok Ayer St.

A perfect cocktail

 

Going, going, gone

My new friend and Arriviste muse Connie introduced me to the Smokey Old Bastard at the Tippling Club on Dempsey Hill on Monday.  I made it ONE day before I had to go back for another...by myself!  But it was, after all, for research.

I developed my love of the creative and well-made cocktail in New York City as the speakeasy revival was getting underway (think Employees Only, Death & Co, and the departed East Side Company), and so I consider my standards pretty high.  And this is one unforgettable drink: fragrant smoke, like orange peels and tobacco in a fireplace, spills out of the bottle when you take off the cap, and the drink itself tastes like an old fashioned on a tropical holiday--gentler, mellower, and slightly sweeter.

Bartender, all I can say is bravo.  Bravo.

Afternoon tea, in high style

 
  
 

TWG is one of Singapore’s most recognizable, most elegant local brands and the fine tea house has a lovely, perhaps Singapore’s loveliest, afternoon tea at their boutique and salon in Ion Orchard.  You’ll find no gauche finger-food buffet here, but you will find a full menu, exquisite brews (naturally) and pastries, and a stylish afternoon tea. The Napoleon caramel macaron--chocolatey, caramely, and black tea-y--may be worth a visit on its own. There's often a wait for a table, so try to avoid busy times (and Ion’s roaming hordes of shoppers).

 

Style

 

Effortless cool

 

Peking duck may be addictive

 

Dumpling making at Din Tai Fung

Echoes of Art Deco elegance at Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck

 

Probably more than anything else, Singapore is an eating city, and food writing—where, what, how much, the best, the worst, blah, blah, blah—abounds.  But not without good reason: Singaporeans are serious about what they eat and restaurants are serious about what they serve their discerning, vocal clientele. (Like food writing, strong opinion also abounds here.)

As a result Singapore has an overwhelming number of excellent restaurants.  But even the most gourmand arriviste can only eat so much, especially if you're short on time.  And as much as dining at hawker centers, smörgasbords of local street food, is hailed as a quintessential Singapore experience, this arriviste would say so is eating at a Chinese restaurant.  

Here are some deservedly famous places, both elegant and relaxed, that each specialize in dishes that you will not soon forget.

-       Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck: This relaxed, elegant restaurant is famous for its Peking duck, which may be, quite literally, addictive.  You will be thinking about it for days after, I guarantee it.

-       Din Tai Fung: The hugely popular casual Taiwanese chain is famous throughout the region for its xiao long bao (Shanghainese soup dumplings).  But don’t let the fact that it’s a chain put you off—their xiao long bao may be one of the world’s perfect foods.

-       Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao: Another popular chain, and those who’ve never had the privilege should go for the fried pork dumplings (which in my humble estimation are even better than the namesake xiao long bao).  Immediately.  (NB, Crystal Jade has a number of different restaurants in its group that all specialize in different food.  Be sure to head to " Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao.")

Expect to wait for a table at all of these restaurants at busy times of day.

 

Happy lunar new year!

Style

 
 Effortless cool

Where can an arriviste find a cheap cup of coffee around here?

Oriole Coffee

Okay, so it's true that one can find a cheap, and quite good, cup of kopi, the local brew, at Singapore's many local coffee shops. And a rich, caramelly kopi with condensed milk is a fab afternoon treat, especially at the local institution that is Killiney Kopitiam.

But for your daily espresso fix?  You may have noticed that the average price of a caffe latte in Singapore is, well, extortionate. $5.30 for a tall latte--really, Starbucks??? And most chains charge similar prices.

But there are excellent, reasonably-priced espresso drinks to be had.  The Rotisserie, an Aussie lunch spot near Far East Square by Chinatown makes a perfect latte--all velvety milk and not a hint of bitterness--that will only set you back $3.50. Da Paolo's Gastronomia, whose four locations up the odds that you'll be near one at any given time, also serves a quality latte for $3.50. 

Oriole Coffee

And, if you happen to be in the market for an expensive cup, bypass Starbucks and head straight to Oriole Coffee for a cold-brewed iced coffee. Buyer beware, though: this is a strong one and they don't serve decaf. Barrista-policy. 

• The Rotisserie, 51 Telok Ayer St
• Da Paolo's Gastronomia, The Paragon, Orchard Rd and various locations
• Oriole Coffee, 96 Somerset Rd and 9 Raffles Place
• Killiney Kopitam, 67 Killiney Rd and various locations

Singapore, hello!

Recently arrived, this arriviste is hard at work finding her place in a cosmopolitan tropical city. 

Singapore Botanic Gardens

In a city where choice can be positively overwhelming, the Arriviste is my attempt to sort the wheat from the chaff, as they say, and to chronicle the best of the best of what I encounter in food, drink, style and daily life in Singapore. The Arriviste will be a carefully curated guide to Singapore's stand-outs for the curious visitor short on time but high on standards. 

The Arriviste is also for the many other new arrivals in Singapore, trying to find their way around a city on information overload. My frequent moves--most recently from New York to Hong Kong to Singapore--have taught me that the quickest way to feel at home in a new place is to find your favorite bar, your go-to dinner spot, your perfect cup of coffee.  I hope the Arriviste will be useful to you in your quest for your own indispensable places.

Xx